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I Love Italian Wine and Food - The Abruzzo Region
An article by: Levi Reiss
If you are looking for fine Italian wine and food, consider the
Abruzzo region of central Italy. You may find a bargain, and I hope that
you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour.
Abruzzo is located on the central eastern part of Italy on the coast
of the Adriatic Sea. The area is 2/3 mountains and 1/3 hills. Over time
Abruzzo has belonged to the Romans, the Lombards, and the kingdom of
Naples. While this area was once very poor, its income is now growing.
Abruzzo and Molise were a single region from 1948 to 1965. Its
population is 1, 275 million.
Agricultural products include grapes, olives, wheat, sugar beets,
tobacco, saffron, pigs, and sheep. The Adriatic Sea and inland lakes and
streams provide a wide variety of fish and shellfish. If I remember
correctly, the first time that I heard of this region was decades ago,
when I learned that according to Craig Claiborne, at the time Food
Editor of the New York Times, Italy’s best food was found in Abruzzo.
Abruzzo has no large cities. Its administrative center l’Aquila has a
population of about 70 thousand. But big cities are hardly a requirement
for good wine. Few would ever claim that Italy’s best wines come from
Rome, or the surrounding area.
Abruzzo devotes about eighty two thousand acres to grapevines, it
ranks 10th among the 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine
production is about 110 million gallons, giving it a 5th place. About
90% of the wine production is red or rose' (not very much rose'), leaving
10% for white. The region produces 3 DOC wines. DOC stands for
Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as
Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine and 1
DOCG red wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane. The G in DOCG
stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines
are truly superior. About 17% of Abruzzo wine carries the DOC or DOCG
designation. Abruzzo is home to about two dozen major and secondary
grape varieties, a few more white and than red.
Widely grown international white grape varieties include Trebbiano
and Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc. The best known strictly Italian white
variety is Trebbiano d’Abbruzzi, felt by some to be Bombino Bianco.
The best known Italian red variety is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is the most widely exported Italian DOC
wine.
Before we reviewing the Abruzzo wine and cheese that we were lucky
enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store,
here are a few suggestions of what to eat with local wines when touring
this beautiful region. Start with a Pizza Rustica, Cinnamon-Scented Pie
Stuffed with Proscuitto, Cheese, and Eggs. Then move on to Polenta sulla
Spianatora, Polenta (Cornbread) Topped with Sausage in Spicy Tomato
Sauce. For desert enjoy a Crostata di Ricotta, a Ricotta Tart.
Wine Reviewed Abruzzo Illuminati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Riparosso”
2004 DOC 13% alcohol about $11.50
The marketing materials state that this wine has hints of an Amarone
(a much more expensive wine) or a Ripasso ( a more expensive wine).
There are raisings, currants, and tar on the nose whilst the taste
profile is ripe, mellow fruit flavors of raspberry jam and ocha. It
doesn’t contain a lot of acidity so drink it within a year. Pair it with
pizza, burgers, or any meat dish that you tend to eat during the week.
This wine is said to complement pasta, red meats, and savory cheeses.
I found the Riparosso to be somewhat robust, with cherry and plum
flavors. I didn’t have the feeling that I was drinking a regular
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but instead almost a Ripasso, a wine that I
prefer. This wine managed to feel full-bodied even with its light
tannins. It balanced nicely the tanginess of barbecued eggplant loaded
with garlic, and demonstrated notable spiciness when paired with a meat
ball and vegetable stew. Its acidity was pleasant. I did not discern all
the flavors listed above. For me the dominant flavor was black cherry.
The final meat dish that accompanied this wine was a barbecued boneless
rib steak with a spicy curry and cumin sauce. The wine seemed to pick up
strength to accompany this meat, which by the way, we don’t eat on a
regular basis during the week.
I tasted this wine with two related cheeses. Pecorino Toscano is a
soft, nutty cheese. Interestingly enough, I found that the wine was no
longer robust, it seemed to soften to accompany this mild cheese. In the
presence of a Pecorino Fiore Sardo, a balsamic sheep’s milk cheese with
a stronger flavor and coarser consistency than its Tuscan cousin, the
wine almost magically picked up flavor to meet the challenge.
Final verdict, as you can tell this wine is a definite keeper.
Extra note. Several months ago on a whim I bought a $6 bottle of
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Given the realities of the marketplace, I
really doubt that any producer can come up with a decent bottle at that
price. At first the wine was terribly acidic. I held out, finished the
bottle and the last glass was almost OK. Yes, there are bargains, such
as this Riparosso, but few in the $6 range.
About the Author
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the
Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other
wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an
Ontario French-language community college. His wine website is
www.theworldwidewine.com. You
can reach him at ital@mail.theworldwidewine.com.
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