Vines in a Naples convent
Photo © mafaldablue
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I Love Italian Wine and Food series - Campania Region
An article by: Levi Reiss
Campania is the shin of the Italian boot. It is located in the
southwestern Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. The region is mountainous and
hilly, with coastal lowlands. Its total population is about 5.8 million,
making it the second most heavily populated region of Italy.
Over the centuries Campania has been ruled by Greeks, Etruscans,
Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Lombards, and Normans among others. It was
the breadbasket of Ancient Rome.
Its soil is fertile, often because of volcanic ash. The region
provides extensive fruits, vegetables, and flowers.
Campania is said to
have given the world pasta and pizza. Other foods abound. Campania is
the most industrialized region of southern Italy, with an emphasis on
heavy industry and tourism.
Campania’s best-known city is its administrative center, Naples, once
glorified by the phrase “See Naples and Die,” which referred to its
beauty and not its high crime rate. Other well-known cities include
Sorrento, a playground of the jet set, and Pompeii, destroyed by Mount
Vesuvius about two thousand years ago. |
Campania devotes about 100,000 acres to grapevines; it ranks 9th
among the 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine production is about
52 million gallons, also giving it a 9th place. About 64% of the wine
production is red or rose' (a bit of rose'), leaving 36% for white. The
region produces 17 DOC wines and one DOCG wine, Taurasi, one of the two
DOCG wines produced in southern Italy. DOC stands for Denominazione di
Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of
Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine.
The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee
that such wines are truly superior. Only 2.8% of Campania wine carries
the DOC designation. Campania is home to almost three dozen major and
secondary grape varieties, with a few more white varieties than red
ones.
Campania is not a major producer of international white grape
varieties. Common Italian white varieties include Falanghina, Fiano,
Greco, and Coda di Volpe.
Campania is not a major producer of international red grape
varieties.The best known Italian red variety is Aglianico, best
expressed in the DOCG wine, Taurasi, and Piedirosso.
Before we reviewing the Campania wine and cheese that we were lucky
enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store,
here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when
touring this beautiful region. Start with Scialatielli alle Vongole;
Herbed Pasta with Clams, Garlic, and Cherry Tomatoes. Then try Branzino
all ‘Acqua Pazz’; Sea Bass in ‘Crazy Water’. And for dessert, indulge
yourself with Coviglie al Caffe'; Coffee Custard and Ladyfingers.
Wine Reviewed Mastoberardino Radici ‘Fiano di Avellino’ DOCG 12.0%
alcohol about $20
When you see a green band on an Italian white wine bottle, you have a
DOCG wine, Italy’s top of the line classification.
Mastoberardino is the largest and best known producer in southern
Italy. Fiano di Avellino is an indigenous white grape variety. They came
together in an excellent wine.
The wine had a beautiful straw color. I found it to be delicate yet
complex and elegant, not the least bit thin. At the first pairing it
held up to spicy barbequed chicken and barbequed eggplant slices. Among
the many flavors, it was spicy and smoky.
The next pairing was with whole wheat pasta and chicken meat balls in
a peppery tomato sauce. Here the wine took on a floral character.
I would have loved to taste this wine with the Mozzarella di Bufala
Campana (Water-Buffalo Mozzarella cheese) described in my article “I
Love Italian Wine and Cheese – The Latium Region” but it is not sold in
my city. I had to settle for Pecorino Sardo, a nutty cheese made in
Sardinia, an island almost directly west of Campagnia. In the presence
of the cheese the wine became almost unctuous.
I really feel that this wine deserved its top of the line
designation. The best white wines often come from cold climates such as
Germany and northern France. Who would have thought that such a fine
white wine could come from sun-baked southern Italy? The neighboring
woods and eighteen hundred foot elevation of Avellino are certainly an
essential part of the final product, well worth the $20, which is more
than I usually spend on a wine bottle.
About the Author
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the
Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other
wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an
Ontario French-language community college. His wine website is
www.theworldwidewine.com. You
can reach him at ital@mail.theworldwidewine.com.
Wine Italy |
