Harvest in Valtellina
Photo © Michele Mondora
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I Love Italian Wine and Food series - Lombardia Region
An article by: Levi Reiss
If you are looking for fine Italian wine and food, consider the
Lombardy region of northern Italy. You may find a bargain, and I hope
that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour.
Mountainous Lombardy is located in the north central zone of Italy on
the Swiss border. It is one of the few regions of Italy without a
seacoast. On the other hand Lombardy is known for its beautiful lakes.
Lombardy owes its name to the Lombards, a Germanic people who ruled it
and neighboring regions for two hundred years well over a thousand years
ago.
Other rulers included the Celts, the Romans, and the Franks. Its
population is 9.4 million, the largest in Italy. In fact, about one of
six Italian residents lives in Lombardy. p>
Lombardy is second to Emilia-Romagna in agricultural production.
Among its many agricultural products are rice, wheat, corn, fruits,
olives, cattle, pigs, and sheep. Natives still eat more risotto (a rice
dish) and polenta (corn bread) than pasta.
The capital of Lombardy’s is Milan, Italy’s financial, fashion, and
media center. With a population of 1.3 million, Milan is larger than
seven regions of Italy. |
Lombardy devotes about 66 thousand acres to grapevines, it ranks 11th
among the 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine production is about
44 million gallons, also giving it an 11th place. About 62% of the wine
production is red or rose', leaving 38% for white. The region produces 15
DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Franciacorta, a sparkling wine made in the
traditional (Champagne) manner, and 2 red wines; Valtellina Superiore,
reviewed below, and Sforzato di Valtellina.
DOC stands for Denominazione
di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of
Controlled Origin. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in
fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Over 47% of
Lombardy’s wine carries the DOC or the DOCG designation. Lombardy is
home to about four dozen major and secondary grape varieties,
approximately three fifths red and two fifths white.
Widely grown international white grape varieties include Pinot
Bianco, known as Pinot Blanc outside of Italy, Chardonnay, Trebbiano,
and Malvasia. The best known Italian white varieties are Gargena, an
Italian variety of Riesling, Renano Italico, and an Italian variety of
Trebbiano, Trebbiano di Lugana.
Widely grown international red grape varieties include Pinot Noir.
The best known strictly Italian red varieties are Barbera, Bonarda,
Lambrusco, and a local Nebbiolo called Chiavennasca.
Before we reviewing the Lombardy wine and cheese that we were lucky
enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store,
here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when
touring this beautiful region. Start with Pizzoccheri della Valtellina;
Buckwheat Flour Ribbons with Wilted Cabbage, Potatoes, and Mountain
Cheese. For a second course try Ossobuco all Milanese; Braised Veal
Shanks with Grenolata (Parsley, Garlic, and Lemon). And for dessert,
indulge in Budino di Pannetone; Pannetone Bread Pudding
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we have communicated with well over a
thousand Italian wine producers and merchants to help prepare these
articles, our policy is clear. All wines that we taste and review are
purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Triaccio ‘Sassela’ Valtellina Superiore 2002 13%
alcohol about $16.50 DOCG
In his work Codice Atlantico, Leonardo da Vinci described Valtellina,
the source of this wine as “A valley surrounded by tall and terrible
mountains, it makes really powerful wines.” This area has made wine
since the days of the Etruscans and the Ligurians, prior to the ancient
Romans. It is the northernmost area for growing the Nebbiolo grape. The
wine itself is one of the three DOCG wines in Lombardy.
The marketing materials stated that its nose is quite outspoken, with
aromas including mushroom, dried cranberry, and paraffin. It is dry with
good fruit, surrounded by supple tannins. This medium-bodied wine is
recommended with hard cheeses or grilled game birds.
This wine was aged 18 months in large wooden casks and a further 6
months in steel tanks. The producer says it can be cellared for 8-10
years and suggests drinking it with pasta of all sorts, air-dried beef,
and cheese.
I first tasted this wine with beef ribs. It was round but a bit
intimidated by the spicy cumin and curry sauce. Paired with a slow
cooked beef and potato stew it handled itself better. It was quite
fruity and cut the meal’s grease. It almost tasted like a Beaujolais.
I tried it with two cheeses. Grana Padano is a classic Parmesan-type
cheese made for a millennium in northern Italy including the Lombardy
region. It is a cylindrical, cooked, semi-fat cheese which matures
slowly. It has a grainy consistency and may be sliced or grated. The
cheese’s taste is fragrant and delicate. The wine brought out the nutty
aspect of the cheese, while intensifying its fruit. It paired well with
Pecorino Toscana from Tuscany, two regions south of Lombardy.
Final verdict. I was a bit disappointed with this wine, DOCG is
supposed to mean top of the line, and it was not.
About the Author
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the
Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian or other
wine, accompanied by the right foods. He teaches classes in computers at an
Ontario French-language community college. His wine website is
www.theworldwidewine.com. You
can reach him at ital@mail.theworldwidewine.com.
Wine Italy |
